You have about 5 minutes before the epoxy is too stiff to manipulate into the cracks. The mix is usually 1:1 hardener to resin, but check the instructions on your epoxy.Īs soon as the two parts come in contact with one another, you’ve initiated the hardening reaction. In a small disposable mixing cup, mix your epoxy. This helps prevent a nasty mess leaking through, or worse your board getting glued to your workbench. If the knots or cracks go all the way through your board, flip it over and cover the backside of the void with masking tape. That’s because once epoxy is mixed, it only gives you about 5 minutes of working time before it starts to harden. Mix small batches rather than large ones, even if you have a lot of knots to fill. Sometimes you’ll want to fill knots or cracks before you cut your boards to size if they’re severe and would pose a safety hazard otherwise. It’s perfectly fine to stain and apply finish on top of cured epoxy. It’s best to do this process before your project is assembled and before it’s sanded, stained or finished. You could leave the epoxy clear, mix it with saw dust, mix it with powdered stone like turquoise, and so on. We’re also tinting this epoxy with black pigment by Mixol. But, as stated above, the process works just fine in other woods with knots or splits. And the sample boards you see in these pictures are knotty alder.
Probably other substances, too.įor this demonstration, we’re working with clear two-part liquid epoxy, which is easy enough to buy at your nearest hardware store.
When you’re building a project out of a knotty or rustic wood like alder, pine, mesquite or hickory, you can give those boards a fantastic boost in stability and appearance by filling the cracks with wood filler, glue mixed with sawdust or epoxy. This rustic knotty alder entry door is brought to life with black epoxy filling apply to the cracks and knots.
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